Copy Element to Clipboard Using Javascript

Over the years I’ve built a web based system that controls most of the sales and support aspects for my software. This includes tracking sales, editing sales, supplying customers with registration keys, prompting them to renew support, and so on. There’s also a search interface that allows me to find customer sales details, registration keys, and to check if they have current support. I use this search interface multiple times a day and when I need to find a registration key or need to remind a customer that their support has expired the system outputs the email text I need to send to the customer to the browser window. Then I select it, and paste it into my emails.

This morning I thought it would be really neat if I could cut out the select and copy steps and have JavaScript copy it into the clipboard for me. Last time I checked this (5 years ago) it wasn’t possible without Flash. Now it turns out you can use the Web API that most modern browsers support to do it.

I wrote this little JavaScript function that I can pass a HTML element ID to and it copies the contents to the clipboard.

function copyToClipboard(elem)
	//create a new range to hold the DIV to copy
	var range = document.createRange();
	//select the not containing the element to copy
	//clear the current selection
	//add the selected range to the current selection
	//run exeCommand to copy 
	//clear the selection

The key here is the document.execCommand(‘copy’) call which sends the contents of the element to the clipboard so I can paste it into my email tool. Triggering the function is pretty simple with something like this:


I found a couple of other solutions that copied to the clipboard by copying the element contents to temporarily created <textarea> but the issue with this was that the HTML formatting was not copied. I needed this so that my support emails maintained my standard CSS styling.

Pirate Life Brewing Pale Ale Review


Pirate Life Brewing are a craft brewer with their facilities in my home town of Adelaide, South Australia. They have a small range of beers available at a limited number of retail outlets. My partner went out of her way to find one of those outlets and bought me a can of each of their three products. The first of these that I’ve tried is their Pale Ale which uses ale malt, caramalt, pale crystal, cascade and mosaic hops. Poured into the glass the beer is a little darker than you’d expect a pale ale to be, being a dark amber, it’s not crystal clear (I am not a clear beer nazi) and it very attractive in the glass. The head was nice and white and fluffy but dissipated fairly quickly. The aroma of the beer was muted with passionfruit the strongest character and some pine in there too. The beer itself had an upfront breadiness and a good level of lingering bitterness, on the back of my palate I got some lemon in the aftertaste. The mouthfeel was nice and sharp and crisp, the sort of mouthfeel I’d like to achieve in my own brewing but haven’t managed yet. Overall, a nice beer but perhaps a little too bitter for it to be quaffable in larger quantities. Recommended.

PERL Search and Replace in Multiple Files – Easy as PIE

I help to administer a blog with about 2000 entries.  Previously the site was managed in MovableType but earlier this year we moved it over to WordPress.  At the time we migrated about 30% of the posts to WordPress (the top trafficked 30%).  It was a slow process and as time has gone by we’ve migrated more and more posts  but it’s a time consuming process.  We need to create the new WordPress post, put a 301 redirect in place and then manually delete the old MovableType post.  And by manual deletion I mean deleting the actual HTML file that MoveableType created for that post.  You see, MovableType produces static files for each and every post, archive page, and index page.  This is a blessing and a curse, it means that the load on the web server isn’t large on heavily trafficked sites, but it also means maintaining a legacy site is a PAIN IN THE A**.  It’s actually such a pain that I have given up with MT itself and now I am working with the static HTML files directly.

This week I needed an easy way of doing a search and replace in all the legacy HTML files, all 2000 or so of them.  It needed to be recursive and ideally it needed to happen without me needing to FTP all the files to a local computer and then FTP them back.  I have command line access to the server the blog is on so I checked to see if PERL offered a way to do what I wanted working on the files in situ.  As it turns out it’s pretty simple.  I wanted to find and replace all internal links that used the old domain name (did I mention this site just changed domain names) with the new domain name.  The PERL command to do this with all the files in a single folder is like this:

perl -p -i -e 's/oldstring/newstring/g;' *.html

The -p means the script we’re running will be put through the C pre-processor before PERL compilation. The -i option means that PERL will edit the files in place. The -e option allows the running of PERL commands from the command line (it doesn’t look for a script file). The actual PERL operator s is the substitution operator while the he oldstring and newstring are regular expressions so special characters need to be escaped appropriately. And finally the operator /g means the command will do a global match. So to replace my URLs I needed something like this:

perl -p -i -e 's/www\.old\-domain\.com/www\.new\-domain\.com/g' *.html

The issue with that is that I needed the script to process sub-directories recursively to search and replace in all the HTML files. That could be done in a few different ways, the immediately obvious were chaining with FIND or GREP. I chose FIND and ended up with a command that looks like this:

perl -p -i -e 's/www\.old\-domain\.com/www\.new\-domain\.com/g' ' `find ./ -name "*.html"`

Ran that from the ubuntu commmand line and thousand or more files were processed in under a second. Very cool.

Brew Day 12 – Reddit /r/HomeBrew Collaboration APA

I often frequent the /r/HomeBrewing sub-reddit and over the last few weeks a member has been developing an APA recipe based on feedback from the sub-reddit subscribers. You can view the recipe here, it’s a pale ale using 2-row, Maris Otter, some oats, and hopped with Warrior, Amarillo, and Citra. As I mostly brew in isolation (apart from my lovely partner who is amusingly tolerant of my brewing fascination) I thought it would be fun to take part in the group-think and have a go at the recipe myself. However, I wanted to try a no-chill (which seemed to work really well last time) and a shorter boil. Aim was to be done with brew day in about 2 hours.

I had to scale down the recipe for my usual 12.5L size (the recipe calls for 5.5 gallons) and adjust the hop schedule to account for the no-chill approach. I’ve done quite a bit of reading in the last few weeks and the rule of thumb suggested is that flame-out additions for no chill should be counted as 10-15 minute additions. The recipe was constructed in the very handy BIAB Beer Designer spreadsheet.

Ale Barret Burston 2 Row 2.04kg
Ale Maris Otter 0.58kg
CaraPils 0.14kg
Caramalt Malt (50EBC) 0.14kg
Oats Flaked 0.14kg

Magnum 9g (12.7%AA) @ 30 minutes
Amarillo 5g (9.5% AA) @ 5 minutes
Citra 5g (13.2% AA) @ 5 minutes
Amarillo 13g @ Flameout
Citra 13g @ Flameout
Amarillo 35g Dry Hop 3 days
Citra 44g Dry Hop3 days




Brew Type : 12.5L All Grain (BIAB)

OG: 1.052
FG: 1.014
ABV: 5.0%
IBU: 19.9
EBC: 11.4

You’ll note that the IBU’s are just under 20, but if you dial in the 5 minute and flameout additions as 10 minute additions you arrive at 42IBU which is right on what the original recipe calls for. The logic for this may be a little flawed as I suspect the 5 minute additions should really be considered as 15 minute additions but the proof will be in the tasting.

Brew Day (21 November 2015)

The evening before I filled my brew pot with 10L of water and my sparge pot with 7L of water and left them sitting to allow for any volatiles to evaporate overnight.

Heating Strike Water

Heating Strike Water

1. Brew day started at 6:40AM when I brought 10L of water to strike temperature of 71C with grain bag lining pot.

2. Added grain bill, stir to ensure no dough balls.

Mashing In!

Mashing In!

3. Took temperature of mash (69.0C) replaced lid on pot, and wrapped pot in doona/blanket for 60 minutes to mash.

There's Wort in There

There’s Wort in There

4. Bring 7L of water to 75C in another pot.

5. At the end of 60 minutes unwrap pot, take temperature again (68.0C). I drained the bag on a wire rack suspended over the brew pot for several minutes.

Draining the Bag

Draining the Bag

6. Sparged the bag with the 75C water until there was a litre or two left and put the bag in the sparge pot and let it rinse out the last of the wort.

Bringing Wort to the Boil

Bringing Wort to the Boil

7. At this stage I had 13L of wort in the brew pot. I took a gravity reading (1.037 @ 61.5C), added a few drops of FERMCAPs to stop boil-overs and brought it all to the boil.

Hop Additions

Hop Additions

8. Hop additions were made when the boil started (Warrior), 25 minutes (5g of Citra and Amarillo) and at the end of the 30 minute boil (13g each of Citra and Amarillo). At this point I whirlpooled the wort for 10 minutes.

Whirlpooling at Flameout

Whirlpooling at Flameout

9. Once that time was up I put the pot into my pre-chilled fridge to bring the temperature down to pitching temp (19C). I expected that to take about 12 hours and aimed to pitch my yeast the next morning. At this point it was 9.20AM, 2 hours and 40 minutes since I’d started. In that time I’d brewed the beer, showered and breakfasted, and answered my morning work emails. Generally I was pretty happy with how short the whole exercise was.

Hot Wort Cooling in Fridge

Hot Wort Cooling in Fridge

10. (Morning of 22 November 2015). I drained the wort into my sterilised fermentation vessel trying to leave as much hop residue as possible in the brew pot. I had to top it off with about 2 liters of cooled boiled water to get my 12.5L volume. I took a gravity reading (1.053) and temperature reading (19C). Aerated thoroughly with a large (sterilised) plastic spoon and pitched my yeast. Filled the airlock with steriliser, put the lit on the FV and put it in my fridge with a set temperature of 19C.

Yeast is Pitched

Yeast is Pitched

Generally I was happy with the day, my mashing temperature was a little high but it doesn’t seem to have effected anything as I achieved my usual efficiency and just missed the target OG by one lousy point. The wort was a very pale green/gold, without doubt the palest wort I have made to date. Not sure if this was a product of the grain bill or the shorter boil. I certainly liked the shorter boil time, however the longest periods of inactivity (other than the mash) was spent waiting for the strike water to heat up and bringing the wort to the boil. That idle time is only going to be solved by getting a bigger gas burner which isn’t on the cards any time soon.

Mash Efficiency

I did my mash efficency calculations in Excel, and got my usual efficency of 70%.

Kg Potential Pounds Potential Points
Ale Barret Burston 2 Row 2.04 1.038 4.49 49.59
Ale Maris Otter 0.58 1.038 1.28 14.10
CaraPils 0.14 1.033 0.31 2.96
Caramalt Malt 0.14 1.034 0.31 3.04
Oats Flaked 0.14 1.037 0.31 3.31
Potential 73.00
      Actual 51.00
      Efficency 69.9%


Schofferhofer Hefeweizen Review

Schofferhofer Hefeweizen

Schofferhofer Hefeweizen

To the left you can see a bottle of Schofferhofer Hefeweizen, an unfiltered German wheat beer. As you can see the beer is a cloudy orange gold colour and had a nice finely bubbled head. On the nose it is earthy and a bit funky, no doubt due to the use of some sort of noble hop. It has a metallic rounded taste (which I assume is the wheat used in the grist) with a lingering breadyness in my mouth at the back once the mouthful is complete. Bitterness is not particular strong and I don’t sense any real hop flavour. I’m not sure I’m enjoying the glass too much and don’t think I’ll rush out to brew this style just yet.

Reading some online reviews of the beer there’s mention of banana and cloves but I get none of that. Compare that with the Weizen Doppelbock I had at Redoak Brewery last month which was the most strongly banana flavoured thing I’ve ever had that wasn’t actually a banana.

4 Pines Brewing Kolsch Review

4 Pines Brewing Kolsch

4 Pines Brewing Kolsch

I’ve been looking for a style of ale to brew for the summer months and a kolsch is among the styles I was considering. Given that I’ve never actually had one I thought I’d give it a try and found a Kolsch marketed as a German Style Golden Ale by 4 Pines Brewing of Manly in Sydney. The beer was remarkably clear with a rich golden colour and only a thin head that dispersed quite quickly. On the nose it was earthy with perhaps a slight hint of pine. On the palate it was faintly malty with a nice bit of refreshing bitterness but not particular dry. After taste was a little spicy with lingering bitterness. I certainly drank it quickly enough on a hot day so I’ll call it quite quaffable. The ABV of 4.7% means I could have a few without feeling the need to dance on a table for my own amusement. It’s certainly a style of beer I’ll look at brewing myself.

wpDataTables Filters in WordPress

I’ve started using wpDataTables for data driven tables in WordPress. The ability to have a table linked to an Excel spreadsheet is neat and the automagically formatted tables that use the jQuery Data Tables plugin are nice too. I needed to tweak few things though. First, center align the table titles. Easy enough using the wpdatatables_filter_rendered_table


function my_filter_rendered_table( $table_content, $table_id )
	$content=str_replace('<h2>','<h2 style="text-align:center;">',$content);
	return $content;

The second issue I was having was with URL Link Columns. These are driven from an Excel spreadsheet by separating the URL and the link text with two pipe (|) characters. Something like:||Nifty Link Text

In the case of the data I was displaying some of the cells would need links and some wouldn’t. Trouble was wpDataTables appears to render every value in a URL Link Column as a link whether you pass it a URL or not. In fact, it uses the Link Text as the URL if you omit the URL. Instant broken links, yuck. No problems, I thought initially, I’d just use the provided wpdatatables_filter_link_cell filter to grab the URL links, parse out the URL and the link text and just return the link text if the URL was invalid. Pretty easily done with a bit of regex like:

	$url=preg_match('/href="(.*?)"/', $link, $url_matches);
	$link_text=preg_match('/>(.*?)<\/a>/', $content, $link_text_match);

It worked beautifully for the Link Text but rather frustratingly preg_match stubbornly returned 0 (no match) for the URL no matter what I tried. Even when I VAR_DUMP’ed the link it appeared that the preg_match should work. But it didn’t. In the end I used substr to echo back the link one character at a time and hey presto, wpDataTables was wrapping the href parameter in a single quote rather than a double quote. When I echoed the value to output using VAR_DUMP the browser (un)helpfully replaced the single quotes with double quotes. Grrrr. Anyway here’s the code that worked:


function my_filter_link_cells($link)
	$url=preg_match("/href='(.*?)'/", $link, $url_matches);
	$link_text=preg_match('/>(.*?)<\/a>/', $content, $link_text_match);
	if (strpos($url_matches[1],"/")===false || strpos($url_matches[1]," ")!==false)
	return $content;

Now my tables displayed links for values that actually had a proper URL and just text for those that didn’t. Yay.

wpDataTables seems pretty good, it isn’t free but $29 seems like a decent price for something that has worked pretty much exactly as advertised and has a tonne of features. Recommended.

Brew Day 11 – APA Version 3

It’s 1-all in the all grain BIAB competition, my first BIAB pale ale is awesome, my second not so much.  I was keen to replicate the last brew with better quality grains, a bit more hops, and (hopefully) better mash temperature control.  However my LHBS of choice seems to be pretty much out of every malt I can think of so I’ve had to come up with an alternate recipe.  I know that’s not scientific but hey, it’s coming up to summer and beer is running short!

Pilsner Malt (3.7EBC) 2.6kg
Bairds Pale Crystal 0.15kg (what I’ve got left)
Munich II Malt (24EBC) 0.35kg
13g Magnum @ 60 minutes (12.7%AA)
18g Cascade @ 10 minutes (5.6%AA)
12g Cascade @ Flameout for 10 minutes (5.6%AA)
14g Cascade, dry hop after 7 days for a week
Danstar Nottingham Ale Yeast

Brew Type : 12.5L All Grain (BIAB)

OG: 1.054
FG: 1.014
ABV: 5.6%
IBU: 36.6
EBC: 15.9

The logic behind this recipe goes something like this:

  1. Pilsner should be nice and light and give a drinkable beer in hot weather.
  2. The Pale Crystal in the cupboard and I may as well use it.
  3. I like the malt hit the Munich gave me in my last brew so I’ll try it again.
  4. A few grams more Magnum up front for more bitterness and dry hopping (for the first time in a BIAB brew for me) to get some nice hop aroma.
  5. Nottingham Ale Yeast because it has a reputation of good attenuation and I’ll still like a dryer beer for the hotter weather.

Brew Day (31 October 2015)

The first thing I did a couple of days before the brew was to split the Nottingham Ale Yeast into equal parts and create two 500mL/100g DME starters in sterilised glass jars. Once those had done fermenting (24 hours) and allowed to settle I carefully drained off the expended wort leaving the creamy yeast at the bottom and topped them off with boiled water. Both were stored safely, one to be used with this brew, and the other for the next.

On brew day I followed my usual method as follows:

1. Bring 10L of water to strike temperature of 71C with grain bag lining pot. I used 10L of mash water gain to get more thermal mass to stop heat loss during the mash process.

2. Add grain bill, stir to ensure no dough balls.

3. Took temperature of mash (67.5C) replaced lid on pot, and wrapped pot in doona for 60 minutes to mash. I noted that the temperature was dropping rather quickly so after 10 minutes I put the pot back on the heat. I was standing on the doona and noted it was quite cold. Drawing the conclusion that one layer of doona under the mash pot was just not insulating it enough (heat escaping into my tiled/concrete floor) I doubled the bottom layer and put the pot back into it’s blankie.

4. Bring 7L of water to 75C in another pot.

5. At the end of 60 minutes unwrap pot, take temperature again (65.5C). I drained the bag on a wire rack suspended over the brew pot for several minutes.

6. Sparged the bag with the 75C water until there was a litre or two left and put the bag in the sparge pot to sit for a few minutes before squeezing the whole lot and trying to extract as much sweet wort as possible.

7. I’d managed to almost fill the whole 15L pot at this stage with 14L of wort. I took a gravity reading (1.037 @ 54.0C), added a few drops of FERMCAPs to stop boil-overs and brought it all to the boil.

8. Last brew I made little muslin hop bags but they didn’t seem to affect the clarity of the brew so I didn’t bother this time. Once boiling I made the hop additions at 60, 10, and 0 minutes. At the end of the boil I had 12L of wort left (2L loss).

9. It’s at this point that I’d usually be cooling the wort in an ice bath but I couldn’t be jacked. The whole pot was put in my fermentation fridge and chilled overnight to 18C ready for pitching in the morning. I suspect this will lead to less clarity in the beer but I am fairly certain I don’t mind drinking cloudy beer so I am happy with the lower amount of effort involved.

10. (Morning of 1 November 2015). The wort was at 18C so I drained it into my fermentation vessel through a strainer leaving me with 11L of wort which was then topped off with cooled boiled water. I took a gravity reading (1.053 @ 17.7C), aerated with my giant sterilised spoon and pitched the Nottingham Ale yeast starter that I’d prepared earlier. The FV then went into my fridge with a set temp of 18.5C where it’ll sit for 10 days before I dry hop.

Overall I’m happy with how the day went. I almost hit almost all my numbers just missing the OG by a little and maintaining a nice constant mash temperature. Not having to chill the wort was great and I’ll be interested to see what impact the over night chilling had. If the beer is of the quality of my first BIAB effort I’ll be more than happy!

Mash Efficiency

2.6KG of Pilsner malt has a potential of 1.038 points per gallon. I’ve got 5.72lb of grain in 3.7 (14L) gallons of water so the potential for the GP is 58.7 points.
0.35KG of Munich II malt has a potential of 1.037 points per gallon (0.35*2.2*37/3.7) and 0.15kg of Bairds Pale Crystal has a potential of 1.035 points per gallon (0.15*2.2*35/3.7). That’s 7.7 points for the Munich II and 3.1 points for the crystal.

Total potential is 69.5 points and with a measured pre-boil (and temperature corrected) gravity of 1.048 the mash efficiency was 69.0% (48/69.5) which is very similar to my last two all grain BIAB efforts.

Update 7/11/15

Took a gravity reading, 1.012. The sample was much darker than I expected and was extremely cloudy which is probably a result of the no chill approach I took to wort. Taste was perfectly good. Will make dry hop addition tomorrow (14g Cascade) and plan to cold crash on 12/11/15 in the AM before fining with gelatine on the evening of the same day. Allow 48 hours to clear and bottle next Saturday (14/11/15).

Brew Day 10 – Hard Apple Cider Version 2

My test batch of hard apple cider is pretty good. Especially on a hot day with some ice cubes and back sweetened with a bit of apple juice. I was keen to get some more on the go for summer so I whipped up a quick batch (largely unplanned) to get into bottles.

14.4L of store bought clear apple juice
Juice from two lemons
Two cups of water
2 bags of English black tea
Handful of raisins
SAFALE-US05 yeast in 500mL LDME starter

I hydrated the raisins in a cup of hot water. The raisins were designed to act as nutrients for the yeast. In a saucepan I put the juice of two lemons and another cup of water before bringing it to a boil for a few minutes. Once off the heat I added the two tea bags and allowed them to steep for 10 minutes. Once done I added the raisins and water and allowed it all to cool to room temperature. I had some harvested SAFALE US05 in the fridge so I got that excited with 100 grams of LDME dissolved in 500mL of boiled water. The bottled juice was poured into my sterilized fermentation vessel, then the cooled juice/water/raisins were added and I aerated it with a large spoon. Dumped in the 500mL yeast starter, screwed on the vessel lid and put an airlock in place. The whole lot was put into my temperature controlled fridge at 18.5C. I’ll leave it there for two weeks before taking a gravity reading. OG was 1.050.

Once fermentation is done I’ll be racking the cider off into the original six plastic bottles the juice came in for secondary fermentation. Some will have fruit (apples and pears) added so I can compare the outcomes.

Update 17 October 2015

Planning to put some fruit in the cider I cut up about a kilo of pears and apples today and starsanned them to remove any bacteria from the skin. I racked off the fermentation vessel into the original 6 2.2L bottles (plus one extra 750mL bottle). I packed two bottles with apple and pear, one with just pear, one with just apple and left one bottle without any fruit. All the bottles went back into the fermentation chamber set for 19C. I’ll leave them there for two weeks before putting the lot into bottles and bulk primed for secondary fermentation.

Sterilised bottles with fruit

Sterilised bottles with fruit

Filled bottles

Filled bottles

Brew Dog

Brew Dog

Update 31 October 2015

While I was brewing some beer I sterilised 16 750 PET bottles. I primed each with 6g of white sugar (what a pain in the ass that was) before carefully draining the cider from their larger bottles into the smaller bottles. I did this with a sterilised funnel. After capping the bottles and carefully noting their contents on the lids I gave each a good shake to dissolve the sugar. The bottles were then moved to my largering cellar (garage) where, I hope in two weeks they’ll be carbonated and ready to drink!

Brew Day 9 – BIAB APA Version 2

The all grain BIAB American Pale Ale I made on my last brew day is delicious. Simply wonderful. Even not fully carbonated it’s awesome with a great malt character, much more so than any beer I’ve made to date. So of course I’m making another batch with a few variations. This time I want to shoot for something a bit drier, more malt character, an less bitterness. I suspect the hop-stand of Cascade at the end of the boil is adding more bitterness that I’d like. Basically I’m looking for a recipe that is more drinkable in the up-coming summer months. To achieve these aims I’m going to mash at a bit lower temperature (to extract more fermentable sugars from the malted grain), replace the crystal/LDME with Munich I malt, and decrease the initial Magnum hop addition by two grams.

Bairds Golden Promise 2.5kg
Munich Malt I 0.35kg
10g Magnum @ 60 minutes (12.7%AA)
18g Cascade @ 10 minutes (5.6%AA)
12g Cascade @ Flameout for 10 minutes (5.6%AA)
SAFALE US-05 harvested from last brew

Brew Type : 12.5L All Grain (BIAB)

OG: 1.050
FG: 1.013
ABV: 5.1%
IBU: 30.7
EBC: 10.1


Heating the Strike Water

Heating the Strike Water

1. Bring 8L of water to strike temperature of 72C with grain bag lining pot. Extra reading I’ve done since my last brew suggested my mash was too thin so I’ve dropped the strike water by 2L.

Mashing In!

Mashing In!

2. Add grain bill, stir to ensure no dough balls.

Using my Keg King Controller to Take the Mash Temperature

Using my Keg King Controller to Take the Mash Temperature

3. Took temperature of mash (66.5C) replaced lid on pot, and wrapped pot in doona for 60 minutes to mash.

4. Bring 8L of water to 75C in another pot.

5. At the end of 60 minutes unwrap pot, take temperature again (62.3C). Remove grain bag from pot and suspend over pot on wire tray and allow to drain out. At this point there was 6L of wort in the pot.

6. Batch sparge with the half wort and half the 75C water and allow to drain. Sit bag in remainder of 75C water, drain, empty wort empty into pot, squeeze out bag again.

Bringing Wort to the Boil

Bringing Wort to the Boil

8. At this point I had 13.5L of wort and drew a small sample for take a gravity reading (1.035 at 51.7C). I’ve bought some FERMCAPs which is supposed to stop boilovers so I can get more wort in my 15L pot. I added 6 drops of the FERMCAPs to pot and now I could bring the pot to the boil and make the first hop addition. This brew I decided to make little muslin bags to put my hops in so I didn’t need to strain out the debris when putting the wort into my fermentation vessel.

Hop Additions (10g Magnum, 12g Cascade, 18g Cascade)

Hop Additions (10g Magnum, 12g Cascade, 18g Cascade)

Hop Additions in Baggies!

Hop Additions in Baggies!

9. At 50 minutes make second hop addition.

10. At flameout add third hop addition and whirlpool and leave for 10 minutes. There was a 2.5L loss during the boil.

11. Chill wort in ice bath to 25C.

S05 Yeast Starter

S05 Yeast Starter

12. Top up to 12.5L with cool boiled water, take starting gravity reading and aerate wort with spoon. I harvested some S05 yeast from my last brew and got things moving along with a 500mL starter. I drained off the expended wort from the top of the starter, replaced it with a bit of my new wort, shook it vigorously and then pitched into my vessel. I put the lid on the fermenter, filled the airlock with sanitizer and put it all in my temp controlled fridge with a set temperature of 18.5C.

Let's Ferment!

Let’s Ferment!

My measured OG was 1.046 @ 24.2C which corrects to 1.047. Not too far of my target of 1.050, the difference is explainable as my BIAB efficiency is not as high as the calculator I am using to develop my recipes.

Mash Efficiency

2.5KG of Golden Promise Malt has a potential of 1.038 points per gallon. I’ve got 5.5lb of grain in 3.56 gallons of water so the potential for the GP is 58.71 points.
0.35KG of Munich I malt has a potential of 1.037 points per gallon. 0.35*2.2*37/3.56 leads to a potential for the Munich Malt of 8.21 points.

So, there’s potential of 66.92 points (58.71+8.21) and the measured pre-boil gravity of 1.045 (45 points) gives 67.25% (45/66.92) efficiency.

Other Notes

I used the Brewers Friend Mash Temp Calculator to arrive at my strike temperature of 72C. Assumption was made that there’d be 1L of water absorption per kilo of grain. The targeted pre-boil volume was 13L so this is how I arrived at the 8L of sparge water (13L boil – 8L strike + 2.85L absorption, about 8L). Note to self, must weigh down hop bags with marbles or they float at the top of the boil. Other note to self, the 4C drop during the mash was probably due to the doona being cold. Either think about building a simple mash tun from an esky or pre-heat dooa with a pot full of hot water. I can use the hot water to sparge anyway so there’s no waste.

Fermentation Notes

Fermentation commenced within 12 hours of pitching and I really only saw activity in the airlock for a day.

20/9/15 – Drew a sample and took the gravity, 1.009.

Drinking Notes

I’ve been holding off on commenting on this beer for a while hoping it would improve (or I’d learn to like it).  On the eye it’s a nice looking beer, a pale gold and just a little cloudy, not as cloudy as, say, a Coopers Pale Ale, but more cloudy than a lager.  On the nose it’s decent too, with hints a bread and just a bit of lemon or citrus from the Cascade hops.

The first mouth full is good too, with a massive up front malt hit.  However from that point forward it’s all down hill.  The initial malt hit lessens in intensity and there’s just not enough bitterness.  Couple that with, what I can only call wateriness and an unpleasant taste in the mouth after half a pint and it doesn’t make for a particularly enjoyable beer.  I’m not sure what the issue is but I’m thinking there’s three main factors:

  1. The grain was of questionable quality.  First time I’ve bought grain from that particular LHBS and there’s no telling how hold it was.  I’ve bought hops from them once before and it was not great either.
  2. My mash temperature control was awful, I dropped way too much temperature.
  3. Not enough Magnum meant not enough bitterness.

I’ll drink what’s left but I’m keen to move forward with another brew and sort out these issues.

What Next

I’d like to try the same beer with grain from the other LHBS (which is usually pretty good), a few grams more hops at 60 minutes, and with better temperature control on the mash.